Wagner Estates… Not Just Fruit Wines Anymore

I made a point of traveling down to Maidstone this week to visit Wagner Orchards and Estate Winery. I have met Harold a number of times at different events and tasted some of his fruit wines in the past, but this is my first visit to his winery. The more I get to know Harold I really admire him. I liken him to George at Smith & Wilson, they are both salt of the earth farmers that greet you in the winery in their tattered farm jackets and overalls, but they both produce very good wines.

The winery is located on their orchard farm spitting distance from the 401. Harold admits that apples are the main focus of his business as in the fall the farm turns out thousands of apple pies, strudel and other baked goods. It is no wonder that he makes some great apple wines. He has a sparkling apple cider that he calls Pug’s Head Cider (I assume after one of his dogs that greeted Stephanie and I at the door). This was a great find as the bubbles were so small and tight that the appearance reminded me of a good vintage champagne. The aroma is distinctively applesauce. The flavors are very light and it has a good crisp acidity. I can see two uses for this wine, for toasting like you would with other sparkling wines, with the light carbonation it could be drank like beer or in place of Strongbow or another of the British ciders.

Before I talk about his two grape wines, I want to mention two other of Wagner’s fruit wines. The Fire House red is a cherry wine that is a very purfumey dry wine that (with Valentines Day next week) reminds me of candy cinnamon hearts. It would go well with spicy food or if you want to try it with a dessert, it goes very well with pumpkin pie (trust me I tried it!). Wagner’s Black Ice is a black current Icewine that is not too sweet. It has a touch of mint flavor followed by black current, black currents and more black currents with a racy acidity.

As I mentioned above, these are the wines that I was familiar with from Wagner’s. What I was surprised to find was his Log House Dry and Log House Red. The Log house dry is a not so subtle Sauvignon Blanc. It has a powerful grapefruit nose with a very warm viscous herbal flavor and a dry finish. If you like Sauvignon Blanc, this is a Sauvignon on Steroids! The Log House Red is a Gamay Zweigelt blend that is round, supple and really drinking well now. It has sweet raspberry and black current flavors with a touch of mild white pepper and balanced tannins.

I will end off telling you about two wine events coming up in the next month. First, Colchester Ridge is hosting an open house on February 9, 2008 from 12-5. They are launching their first Icewine. The 2006 Vidal Icewine is different than your typical Ontario Icewine. It has the stereotypical brown sugar nose with some grapefruit and eucalyptus. What sets this Icewine apart is it has a racy acidity and it is really warm (winespeak for high in alcohol). If you don’t enjoy syrupy sweet Icewines, you may want to give this one a try.

The other event coming up is a Winemakers Dinner with Harold Wagner here at Stargazer on Wednesday March 5 2008. We have paired the five wines I mentioned above with a 6 course meal. The night begins at 7 pm and it is only $65 per person to enjoy the six courses and five wines. I have included the menu below. For Reservations call me at 519-351-9351

WINEMAKERS DINNER
Hosted by HAROLD WAGNER
Wagner Estate Winery

Wednesday March 5, 2008
7:00

SMOKED SALMON
On a green apple and celeriac slaw
Pug’s Head Cider
(Sparkling apple cider with a beautiful applesauce nose
with fine light bubbles and crisp acidity)

*****
SEARED SEA SCALLOPS
on a roesti potato with a white grapefruit salsa
Log House Dry
(A Powerful Sauvignon Blanc with a grapefruit nose,
warm viscous herbal flavors with a dry finish)
*****
HONEY MADRAS CURRY
Diced lamb stewed in honey, cumin and chilies
atop cinnamon basmati with Indian style pickles.
Fire House Red
(a purfumey dry cherry wine reminiscence of cinnamon hearts)
*****
APPLE & MINT SORBET
*****
PORK TENDERLOIN MEDALLIONS
On a blue cheese and red onion gratin with raspberry sage reduction
Log House Red
A gamay zweigelt blend with round & sweet
with raspberries & black currents, mild white pepper and balanced tannins
*****
CHOCOLATE CUSTARD FLAN
With a black current ice cream
Black Ice
(Black current Ice wine with mint, black currents black currents & more black currents with a good acidity and not too sweet